The Complete Guide to Half Court Basketball Court Dimensions and Layout
2025-12-18 02:01

Let’s be honest, most of us don’t have access to a pristine, full-length NBA court whenever the urge to play strikes. The reality of urban living and backyard hoops is the half-court game. It’s where fundamentals are honed, where epic 1-on-1 battles unfold, and where, as that intriguing snippet from a game recap suggests, miraculous comebacks are born—a team firing “a 5-0 blitz from 21-24 down to save three set points” might as well be describing a heated pickup game to 25. That kind of drama doesn’t require 94 feet; it thrives in the compressed, intense theater of a half-court. But for that theater to function correctly, its dimensions and layout aren’t just casual suggestions; they are the essential grammar of the game. Having measured, painted, and argued over lines on more courts than I can count, I’ve come to see the half-court not as half of something, but as a complete entity with its own precise rules.

The foundation, of course, is the full court. A regulation NBA court is 94 feet long by 50 feet wide. International FIBA courts run 28 meters by 15 meters, which is approximately 91.9 feet by 49.2 feet. So, a true half-court, in theory, is 47 feet long by 50 feet wide for NBA specs. But here’s where practicality kicks in, and where my personal preference leans heavily toward safety and flow. You simply cannot just take that 47-foot length and run a baseline-to-half-court game. You need what we call “run-off” space. I’ve seen too many players, myself included, crash into fences or walls because someone got ambitious with their driveway paving. For any serious play, I advocate for a minimum of 3 to 5 feet of clear space beyond the baseline and sidelines. That means your actual paved or surfaced area should be closer to 55 feet wide by 53-55 feet long. It makes a world of difference. The key lines within this space are non-negotiable. The half-court line, or division line, is exactly that—it bisects the full court. On a dedicated half-court, it becomes your baseline for one direction and the top of your key for the other. The three-point line is critical. In the NBA, it arcs to 23 feet 9 inches at the top and 22 feet in the corners. For a pure half-court, you’re only dealing with that corner arc and a portion of the wing. FIBA’s line is a uniform 6.75 meters (about 22 feet 1.75 inches) all around, which I actually find more logical for a condensed space, creating a more consistent shooting challenge.

Now, the free-throw line and the key, or the paint, are the heart of the half-court battle. The free-throw line is 15 feet from the backboard, and the key is 16 feet wide (19 feet internationally). This rectangular zone dictates everything. It’s where post players fight for position, where drivers attack the rim, and where defensive schemes are tested. In a half-court setting, every inbound play, every set offense, is designed around manipulating this space. That thrilling 5-0 run mentioned earlier? I’d wager it involved relentless defensive pressure forcing turnovers at the top, leading to quick scores in the paint or kick-outs to the shortened three-point wing. The confined area amplifies defensive intensity; there’s nowhere to hide. The backboard and rim have their own specs we often take for granted. The rim is always 10 feet high, a sacred number. The backboard is 72 inches wide by 42 inches tall (or 44 inches for some older models), with the inner rectangle serving as a timeless target. I have a soft spot for the classic transparent glass backboard—it just feels more professional and gives a clearer sightline for those bank shots.

When it comes to materials, I’ve played on everything. The gold standard for outdoor is still a poured-in-place acrylic surface over asphalt or concrete. It provides the right balance of give and traction. For a truly premium home setup, a modular interlocking tile system with a shock pad underneath is fantastic, though costly. Asphalt is the common choice, but it’s hard on the joints and gets dangerously slick when wet. Concrete is even less forgiving. I always advise investing in a good surface—it’s the single biggest factor in preventing injuries and enjoying the game long-term. For lines, professional two-component paint is durable, but for DIY, a high-quality court tape can work wonders for marking boundaries and keys if you’re not ready for a permanent paint job.

Ultimately, understanding half-court dimensions isn’t about pedantic rule-quoting. It’s about creating a fair, functional, and safe stage for the game we love. Whether you’re building a court in your driveway or just trying to understand why your local park’s court feels “off,” these measurements matter. They ensure the three-pointer you hit from the corner is the same distance as the pros face, that the charge you draw under the basket is a legitimate defensive play, and that the geometry of the game—the angles for passes, the spacing for picks—remains intact. That magic of a comeback, of stealing a game from the jaws of defeat, hinges on a universally understood battlefield. So, measure twice, paint once, and then get out there and create your own blitz. The court, properly laid out, is waiting for your story.